What does a guide do in winter? She is guided. Winter’s a good season to learn and besides reading books, a guide can attend various trainings, sometimes at new museums, which want to promote themselves this way, sometimes at historical places usually closed to the public. Last week I got an insider’s look at the Cistercian Abbey in Mogiła.
The abbey, located in the far east of Kraków (well, about 10km from the city centre), in between the residential and industrial Nowa Huta, was started in 13th century and is a true gem. Whenever I go there, it feels like a pilgrimage: there’s the considerable distance to cover, the joy at finally reaching the destination and the welcoming and prayerful atmosphere. The church is the Shrine of the Holy Cross and the plentiful votive offerings prove that many prayers have been heard here.
Main altar at Mogiła, Kraków
The church is also a magnificent work of art. Elegance rules. There is very little decoration on the outside (as in most Cistercian churches) and the ornaments inside are harmonious and tasteful. What attracted my attention most were the floral patterns painted on the walls. Some, dating to the Renaissance period and created by Stanisław Samostrzelnik, a monk fluent in both architectural and book decoration, are very delicate. Others, added about 100 years ago by Jan Bukowski (like Samostrzelnik skilled at many art forms), are richer and more elaborate, resembling folk designs. Together they make you feel as under a pergola in a garden. Add to this small, floral stained glass windows in the cloisters and you get the image of this cheerful and colourful place.
The highlight of the training in Mogiła was visiting the library: a small room, decorated by Samostrzelnik and unchanged since the 16th century, with bookshelves packed with huge leather-bound volumes. We were shown a copy of The Nuremberg Chronicle from 1493, which really interested us because of the famous image of Kraków it contains. We were also let into the cosy chapter house.
Now, if you are a bit jealous and would gladly visit the place yourself, I’ve got good news for you. The Cistercians are planning to open a museum in their monastery and it’s highly possible that it will happen already this year. But, of course, you don’t need to wait so long. You can always visit the church and groups can arrange a guided tour of the monastery as well. It would be a great attraction of a longer stay in Kraków.
Krakowianka 